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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Feb 12, 2009 7:13 am Post subject: |
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Got the new 9HP engine yesterday, it's a BEAST, and twice the size of the 6.5HP.
In order to get the TAV on now we're going to have to grind down some of it and also grind some down of the engine base. Are there negatives to this like making the base suseptible to cracking?
You can see where need to cut in the green
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JeffKnox Backside 180
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 2044 City: Jacksonville/Gainesville
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Posted: Feb 12, 2009 9:36 am Post subject: |
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grind away.... i grinded the shizzle out of both of mine
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Montgomery Backside 180
Joined: 26 Feb 2008 Posts: 976 City: Rogers
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Posted: Feb 12, 2009 10:29 am Post subject: |
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JeffKnox wrote: | grind away.... i grinded the shizzle out of both of mine |
Me too it seems that most people have to grind on em a little
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Feb 12, 2009 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, guys, grinded that bitch down and she's totally flush now.
I put the TAV on the engine but the belt aint gripping at all, like as if the shaft aint long enough
Not having the manual doesn't help:(
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Last edited by diegowhite on Feb 13, 2009 4:16 am; edited 1 time in total |
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JeffKnox Backside 180
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 2044 City: Jacksonville/Gainesville
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Posted: Feb 12, 2009 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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video?
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Feb 13, 2009 4:19 am Post subject: |
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I don't have the engine running, was just moving it by hand.
I think I'm either going to have to float the TAV to get it in line or try to extend the shaft on the other side, any issues with floating it? the manual said not to
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paulmc Frontside 180
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 292 City: Manchester, UK
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Posted: Feb 13, 2009 8:16 am Post subject: |
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Looks like your shaft is poking out too far from the engine for the TAV.
With the TAV there is usually a metal collete that spaces the plate from the mounting, try without that collete as i looks like yours does not need the spacing. then put everything back as it was before.
http://www.hoffcocomet.com/comet/pdf/162608A-tav2-30-new.pdf
the spacer/collete i'm talking about is item 11 on the parts list. Also see instruction #4 in the manual.
by the way hope you find the instructions useful.
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ugly Ollie
Joined: 23 Jun 2008 Posts: 57
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Posted: Feb 13, 2009 10:31 am Post subject: |
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I think you have the rear piece on this photo on backwards. I think it should have the flanged end facing the engine. Also, that bigger key lookin washer thing should fit inside one of those things...the belt doesnt rest on it. The belt will be slack until you power up the rev's and the TAV engages. I could be wrong though...i installed mine in like 2 mins and didnt really take note of how i did it.
Here's the instructions if you can make anything out. I'm really not all that familiar so maybe this will help. The first page is on the bottom...then scroll up for the second page.
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Feb 13, 2009 10:47 am Post subject: |
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paulmc wrote: | Looks like your shaft is poking out too far from the engine for the TAV.
With the TAV there is usually a metal collete that spaces the plate from the mounting, try without that collete as i looks like yours does not need the spacing. then put everything back as it was before.
http://www.hoffcocomet.com/comet/pdf/162608A-tav2-30-new.pdf
the spacer/collete i'm talking about is item 11 on the parts list. Also see instruction #4 in the manual.
by the way hope you find the instructions useful. |
I've left out the collete all together in the above setup and it still comes 1/2" out too much (like it's a total 1" from the crankshaft)
Thanks for the instructions makes it easier but i still dunno what to do to get the belt inline
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JeffKnox Backside 180
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 2044 City: Jacksonville/Gainesville
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Posted: Feb 13, 2009 11:51 am Post subject: |
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diegowhite wrote: | I don't have the engine running, was just moving it by hand. |
haha you do realize that the belt will stay slack until the engine reaches a certain rpm's right.... by moving it with your hand it should be slack because that is the purpose of a clutch lol.... while your engine is idling it should not engage
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JB_CANSKATE Backside 180
Joined: 06 Jul 2004 Posts: 1622 City: Markham, Ontario
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Posted: Feb 13, 2009 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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I would try putting some washers in between the engine and the TAV mount until the belt is straight. See if that works.
I had to grind down the collete/spacer to make my tav fit on the briggs.
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Feb 16, 2009 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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Right gonna order up the go kart axle tonight, whats the best way to mount the spool on it and with the chain running straight from the TAV what size sprocket should i have on the axle?
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paulmc Frontside 180
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 292 City: Manchester, UK
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Posted: Feb 19, 2009 8:27 am Post subject: |
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What does your spool look like? is it a releasing spool?
You want a sproket with about 60-70 teeth on it.
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Feb 19, 2009 9:03 am Post subject: |
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were building it ourself out of cutting discs and rods
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paulmc Frontside 180
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 292 City: Manchester, UK
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Posted: Feb 19, 2009 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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you want some axel hubs that will hold onto the cutting disc's aswell as hold onto the axel
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GnarShredd Backside 180
Joined: 24 Jan 2009 Posts: 1529 City: Seattle
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Posted: Feb 20, 2009 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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diegowhite, I keep hearing about a magic 1:6 ratio. (Example, 12 teeth on the TAV, 72 on the sprocket; or 10 on the TAV 60tooth sprocket). Then you can more finely adjust it with spool diameter.
this is pretty much just from my research and a friend who built one that works perfectly. I'm about 3/4 of the way done with mine. (Just need to figure out an engine mount and order an axel).
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Mar 02, 2009 9:02 am Post subject: |
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paulmc wrote: | you want some axel hubs that will hold onto the cutting disc's aswell as hold onto the axel |
Is the hub then welded to the axle? any size hub do?
cheers
got two cutting disks for the spool ready to go
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paulmc Frontside 180
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 292 City: Manchester, UK
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Posted: Mar 02, 2009 9:12 am Post subject: |
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Usually they use grubb screws to hold onto the axel, hence an axle with a 1/4" key way is always a good idea.
like these kind of things....
http://www.bmikarts.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=172
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diegowhite Faceplant
Joined: 23 Oct 2008 Posts: 36 City: Dublin
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Posted: Mar 31, 2009 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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we got hubs but it has no grub screw holes only a keyway with keystock, do we drill holes into the hub. so bloody close to having it running and so many little things to get around
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ILwake12 Faceplant
Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 21 City: Milliken
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Posted: Mar 31, 2009 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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just a word of caution about the cutting disk spool idea, make sure you use some kind of wheel rim on the inside of the spool or the bolts will pull straight through the cutting disk (voice of experience, very frustrating)
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