Laird Hamilton is the man

[chriscut]

http://honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20071205/NEWS01/712050415/1001

Some Hawaii surfers take on 80-foot waves


By Christie Wilson
Advertiser Neighbor Island Editor

Laird Hamilton




Maui surfer Kiva Rivers caught a ride in Outer Honolua Bay, Maui, during Monday's storm surf. Swells there had about 40-foot faces.


Buzzy Kerbox photo





WAILUKU, Maui — "It was the worst lickings I've ever had," said extreme waterman Brett Lickle, describing his wipeout Monday in a wave with an estimated 80-foot face.

Lickle, 47, suffered a severe gash on his left leg during an afternoon session at Outer Sprecks with famed big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton, who stripped naked to fashion his surf trunks into a tourniquet to prevent his tow-in partner from bleeding to death.

"It was the most intense thing I've been through," said Lickle, recuperating yesterday at his Ha'iku home.

Lickle made his name for being the first person along with Dave Kalama to windsurf at the notorious Jaws surfbreak at Peahi, Maui. He also is a member of the original Strap Team that pioneered tow-in surfing, experimenting with foot straps on surfboards. More recently, he invented the SurfBall balance trainer.

Lickle and other big-wave experts said Monday's storm surf created historic swells that rolled in close together, making it more dangerous for personal watercraft operators to swoop in and pick up their surfing partners before the next breaking wave.

"Those were the biggest waves that any of us have seen," said Buzzy Kerbox, another member of Maui's big-wave surfing community.

The storm surf roared in from the northeast in just the right direction to cause the swells to hit the outer reef off Spreckelsville and generate a steep peak, Kerbox said, much like the Teahupoo, also known as Chopo, break in Tahiti.

Lickle said Outer Sprecks is a "secret spot" that "most people don't want anything to do with."

"If ever you're going to find a 100-footer, it's there," he said.

The surf was "pretty monstrous" when Lickle and Hamilton returned to the outer reef in the afternoon after a morning tow-in session. Only one other tow-in team braved the giant waves with them.

Lickle said he was on a Honda AquaTrax three-seat watercraft while Hamilton grasped a tow rope before kicking out of a wave. Lickle turned back and picked up the surfer, but they were unable to outrun the looming 80-foot wall of water.

"I'm in big trouble," Lickle said he told himself before the wave crashed down.

The entire length of his left calf was sliced open by the high-performance aluminum fin on a spare board stowed on the sled trailing the AquaTrax. After surfacing, Lickle reunited with Hamilton, who provided makeshift first aid with his shorts. Lickle said that at that point, they were about three-quarters of a mile from shore.

Hamilton "swam like a bat out of hell" for a half-mile to retrieve the AquaTrax and return to his injured partner, he said. By then, Lickle had been pushed into calmer waters and was no longer in danger of getting slammed by big waves. But with the bleeding from his wound, he said he became worried about "the big guys" — tiger sharks known to prowl Maui's coastlines.

The two had a radio on board and were able to call for help. An ambulance was waiting when they came ashore at Baldwin Beach Park in Pa'ia.

More than 50 staples were needed to close the gash on Lickle. As soon as his leg recovers, he said he plans to hit the waves: "That's right."

Although he observed the Outer Sprecks break from shore, Kerbox decided to head to Maui's northwest coast to test the tow-in surf outside Honolua Bay. At about 3:30 p.m., the size of the swells doubled to 40-foot faces, he said.

"It was normal, nice tow-in surfing, but once it got bigger, it just jumped a whole notch," he said. "It was breaking in places we've never seen it break. It went from fun and easy to pretty challenging."

County ocean safety supervisor Archie Kalepa, another well-known tow-in surfer, said surf levels along the north shore continued to drop yesterday from 12 feet to 15 feet at Ho'okipa Beach Park, and 15 to 20 feet at Baldwin Beach Park to "more manageable" levels.

However, both parks remained closed yesterday because of high waves and surf damage.

[JAM]

ya he is the man, but in that situation I think I would of used my leash in stead of my boardshorts.

[chriscut]

JAM, I dont think they use leashes on tow in boards, too dangerous if it gets hung up on something.

[Gnarly Dancer 42]

holy crap

[SwissArmyKnife]

If you have yet to see "Riding Giants" watch it... its a documentary on the history of big wave surfing.

[rectumhead]

Chris Barcellos, no doubt! Cannot even imagine having the confidence to ride those waves! Ocean is soo powerful its mind blowing. Did you hit Maverick's on Monday? When I worked in Pebble Beach I would watch those dudes hit big waves. Went over to Santa Cruz as well and watched. 40-50 foot waves are huge in person! 80+ feet is something I would love to watch in person. Super cool. Mother nature is strong Chris.

[chriscut]

jim daily, no man I haven't surfed mavericks. I'm no where near ready for that .. the biggest its been when i've gone out is around 12-14ft I cant even imagine riding a 30ft wave, or getting crushed by one... 40-50-80, that is mind bottling, yes I said bottling.

It must have been awesome to see them ride by pebble beach, and SC. Today I surfed mitchells cove after work for 45 mins until it was pitch dark. It wasnt even huge but it was breaking like ive never seen in that spot. The current along the shore was so powerful. You're right, mother nature is no joke. she is one powerful mother.

[wakemitch]

Chris Barcellos, how dare you surf my cove without my permission