Sealing A Bi Level

[Dered]

Okay before everyone rapes about searching... I did search. From that search I have found that I need to buy some sealant... however many types were suggested. SO my first question is what is one type that someone has actually used to seal a Bi Level? Secondly, from my search I found that I need to sand it so the sealant grips on... but how much do I have to sand? Thirdly, should I take off the grip tape and seal the full top deck?

I don’t want to sound like an idiot... I can honestly say I somewhat knew the procedure for sealing a deck... but I did not know the specifics, so I searched, but could not find the answers I needed. The reason I need to seal my Bi is obviously very clear... I had my first top deck delaminate, and I was fortunate enough to have a spare top deck to use, so I don’t want to have the same problem. Anyway, thanks for the help.

[itch]

Any Marine Grade sealant will work go to your Marina and they should have some.
Just lightly hand sand the ENTIRE DECK, yes remove the grip do both top and bottom deck. Then regrip and rip.
itch

[devotid]

ok here goes
None of this is fact so take it for what you will. I ve got a lot of experience with it. Hope this helps ya because it worked great for me many times.

1- remove grip tape and then clean the whole deck with isopropyl alcohol. make sure to get all the stickem off. Through out this whole process remeber the cleaner the better.
2- scuff the entire board with 220 grit sand paper. this is where cleaning the deck really matters becuase if you sand a dirty deck you'll just grind the grime and dirt into the wood and the clear sealent wont stick as well in those areas.
3- If you have many areas that have gone to bare wood go to home depot and get some "Daft" or "Deft" wood sealer (gloss or satin it doesnt matter) it comes in quarts for cheap. Foam brush two coats on. It dries in minutes not hours.
4- Sand again after the wood sealer has completely dried with 220 grit.
5- wipe with a clean rag after sanding to remove dust.
6- Clearcoating. first the main choice of what final clear/sealant to use is what kind of tool you will be using to apply it to the skate. I ve found that using three even coats of marine spar varnish with a nice foam roller ( From Boaters World or comparible store) works great but seem to turn the board and graphics a slight amber color (our brownish). Rolling the clear on leaves the board with a slight texture but makes it a little thicker and stronger. If being clear and crisp is important to you i recommend buying or borrowing a High Volume Low Pressure automotive spray gun and spray three even coats of clear/sealant with the first coat being just a light "tack coat" (it gives the other two coats something to stick to)
7- let dry for 48 hours. Wetsanding is optional at this point. but your board should be shiny enough.
8- Rock the $hlt out of it. and reep the benefits of a kick ass job well done. woot woot

notes: try to do your clear applications at around 70-85 degrees in a low humidity enviroment. the lower the humidity the better the gloss.

[Dered]

devotid, Bro I can not thank you enough... that is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you tons.

[kento911]

Dered, you will have to do it more often than a regular wood deck since the finish will crack where the board flexes and it will be rubbed off some by the "trucks" so keep an eye on those areas