the biggest kook in the water (surfing)

LeJalapeno · Ollie Joined: 27 Nov 2010 Posts: 89

Is me

I don't snake runs, or anything like that.. but I just have to imagine some other surfers seeing me

I just started a couple weeks ago on a 6' fish I scored for cheap. Im usually in the water at sunrise, but I find it hard to sit on my board while waiting for the next set ( floppin around and such) I eat shizzle often, and my arms are usually dead weight by the time I've decided I've had enough.

But I still love it! Nothing better than being on the water. And last week I finally figured out its a lot easier to catch a wave at an angle.

So if you see some tard out in the water in socal, say hi... its probably me Smile

POPTART · 360 flip Joined: 24 Jul 2007 Posts: 7621

dude i was just over in cbad

when i lived there for 2 years i started going every day

took me 9 months to get it

literally

reading water
placing yourself

endurance

it was 90% drowning with a 3% BAIL rate a 5% (always in the wrong spot rate) a 1% in the way of the locals rate , a 0.5% sucess rate and a 0.5% closeout rate

and so when i went back last week i had 4 days to get some shredding in

i got out to encenitas and cought the very first one i went for, rode it to close and jumped off, paddled back and spent the rest of that day dying , just getting pounded
getting out there and catching one took everything out of me
the next three days were brutal
in 4 days of decent surf i rode one , stood up maybe a total of 5 times
and bailed the others

surfing is tough
and if you dont surf, you cant surf

PIRATE · Kickflip Joined: 11 Jul 2006 Posts: 2651

I surf encinitas/leucadia all the time... we should meet up.

POPTART · 360 flip Joined: 24 Jul 2007 Posts: 7621

my fav spot is next to the self relization center

i might move back just to surf
chicago<socal

PIRATE · Kickflip Joined: 11 Jul 2006 Posts: 2651

Swami's ??????

I love surfing grandview and beacons..... Super fun.

POPTART · 360 flip Joined: 24 Jul 2007 Posts: 7621

PIRATE, didnt ive there long enough to get all the names right , id just drive untill i felt like i wanted to surf a place

mostly avoided the crowds

but i lived really close to warm water in cbad so i usually stuck around there

where is grandview and beacons?

who do you wakeskate with down that way
there are some really good ppl always looking for others to ride with
pm me if you want their numbers they really dont do much on the interwebs

wish i knew you were in the area , we winched their incline in on fiesta in mission bay last thursday
so fun

PIRATE · Kickflip Joined: 11 Jul 2006 Posts: 2651

I rarely wakeskate anymore.... I come on here to stay in contact with old friends.... I live in Havasu but my fam lives in CA so when im there i usually ride moto and surf....

Deffinetly have to get a surf in someday.

LeJalapeno · Ollie Joined: 27 Nov 2010 Posts: 89

Yeah dude, im down. I probably won't be able to make it that far south until july, but I'm always looking for people to surf with. How far are you from trestles?